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THE GARDEN ISLAND

If you fly 5,000 miles over nearly a full day with two lousy changeovers in Los Angeles, you must like a place a lot to do it again. 

That’s Kauai.

My wife and I went there in March for our second visit. The first trip, in 2022, ended with us desperately trying to find a way not to go home. 

The weather was perfect. The beaches were perfect. The food was perfect. The scenery was perfect. The people who live there were perfect.

Our second trip wasn’t quite as wonderful. The first week was pretty much a washout due to a Kona storm that stalled over the Hawaiian Islands. We were actually lucky – Oahu and Maui were inundated with water. We only had about 7 inches.

The weather improved markedly the second week. All the things we loved about Kauai the first time we loved again.

We stayed both times at the Sheraton Kauai Resort. It had a gorgeous pool and a pathway that jammed up with gazers around sunset. 

Many of you know this. Because you’ve seen them a lot in the past couple of weeks.

The pool got ruined by sand from the force of a hurricane that swept through Kauai. The pathway got broken up. Water smashed through the seaside exercise room where I used the stationary bike every morning. A flood surge turned the breezeway into a fast-moving stream.

I don’t like the idea of naming hurricanes because it bestowed a sense of humanity that this sort of destruction doesn’t warrant. This has never been more the case than this storm.

Not only was the resort where we created new great memories severely damaged. But the storm downed trees that blocked the roadways we walked to get my sixth Hawaiian shirt and an amazing white pineapple. The houses we envied as we walked were shattered.

But, because I fancy the idea of living on Kauai, the part that struck hardest is how the island’s people suffered from the storm.

Some are still without electricity more than a week after the storm. They needed ice on an island where air conditioning and ceiling fans make it habitable. 

There was one death attributed to the storm on Kauai. That’s sad, but obviously good planning and residents displaying their intelligence kept the toll down. 

Now comes the dilemma.

On the one hand, like most of Hawaii, tourism is the main driver of commerce. There is almost no time of the year when the resorts, the hotels, the restaurants, the gift shops aren’t filled with visitors from the mainland and from other countries. 

So losing tourism revenue is a serious matter. I’m sure that the Hawaiian and Kauai governments and the businesspeople on the island are anxious to get things running again.

On the other hand, the first obligation is to make sure the people who actually live there are safe and secure. That their losses are made good. That they are back to living their lives without worrying about pandering to tourists. Especially demanding ones who, after spending the fortune it takes to go to Hawaii at all, want everything just right at the moment they want it.

It goes to one of the big issues on Kauai and all the other Hawaiian islands: Who are they? Are they Hawaiians, with their own language and culture that need preservation and cultivation? Or are they Americans, looking to make a living the best way they can?

If I were planning to go back to Kauai anytime soon, I wouldn’t. I would wait at least until some time in 2027 – and only then go if I know the people there are able to sustain and greet visitors.

What I do plan to do is support some of the businesses on the island. I don’t drink coffee, but I’m told Kauai Coffee is excellent. I do drink rum, and Koloa Rum makes an excellent gift for discerning drinkers. There are chocolate companies and cookie makers and produce suppliers – and if you want to send them some support this coming holiday season, they’re worth the effort.

There are also charities to help residents still in need, including farmers trying to recover from the devastation. We donated to Malama Kauai https://malamakauai.org/, which deals with both the producing and the distribution of food on the island. 

Most importantly, let’s think about what just happened.

Hawaii has been belted by storms all of 2026. This doesn’t seem like an accident. We think of climate change as making cooler places warmer. That’s only part of it. 

There’s less of an atmosphere to shield us from the extremes of weather – and we’re seeing that all over the world. Even in a place where the weather is nice 99% of the time.

There’s an election in less than seven weeks and a bunch of people running who don’t think climate change is a hoax or fake news. As the people on Kauai can attest, this might be a good time to vote for them.

Kauai’s history is fascinating. It was never a conquered part of the Hawaiian kingdom because it is further away from the other main islands than they are from each other. Warriors on both sides had a hard time getting across that swatch of the Pacific Ocean.

But now it needs not only the help of its fellow Hawaiians, but the help of its fellow Americans. It’s up to us to show the spirit of aloha to one of the most beautiful places on earth.

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ALOHA (THE GOODBYE EDITION)

POIPU, HAWAII – By the time you read this, I will have left Kauai, where I’ve spent the past two weeks.

It’s been mostly terrific. Because I love Hawaii. Especially this island, Kauai.

We’ve been very lucky – almost lottery-quality lucky. The three other main islands – Oahu, Maui and Hawaii – were inundated by rain in what’s called Kona Storms. Parts of the other islands remain underwater. People needed to be evacuated from homes, roads flooded. Miraculously, and thankfully, there is no official death toll attributed to the storms.

Here on Kauai, we got a lot of rain right after we arrived two weeks ago – 6.5 inches at the airport where we landed. We spent the first two days of our vacation cooped in our room.

But it stopped raining early last week and, for the final days of our trip, we got what we came for – sunshine, warmth, a chance to wander around the Garden Island.

Hawaii and Kauai, when they are like they’ve been this week, are glorious.

Yes, there’s the weather and the Pacific Ocean.  The lush greenery. The best seafood anywhere. The magnificent sunrises and sunsets.

Hawaii, though, is glorious for what it represents; the incredible diversity of the United States of America.

It is the crossing point for so much of the human race. Starting with the Polynesians, who settled on the uninhabited islands in the first millennium and lived perfectly well until the late 18th century. 

That’s when the British came. They didn’t expect to find the islands, but once they did, they liked what they saw. They enjoyed the food, the pearls and the young women. They gave back guns and diseases. 

The Russians came here, too. So did the Japanese and Chinese. 

And, of course, the Americans. 

I’ve spent much of early 2026 reading history about Americans and their attitudes toward indigenous people, both in North America and beyond. They weren’t much into sharing, or abiding by agreements. I think that’s what Trump sees as America’s greatness, aka double dealing. The islands ended up belonging to us.

In 1960, Hawaii became the 50th state. We haven’t added any since. 

When you come to Hawaii, you notice two things about people. One is that the folks who stay in hotels and resorts tend to be overwhelmingly Caucasian. Certainly more so than home in New York.

The other thing is that the people who actually live and work here are overwhelmingly not Caucasian. They’re an incredible mix of native Hawaiian, Asian, Hispanic and everyone else you can imagine. 

With all that difference, you might expect conflict. Nah!

I have not seen hot tempers or a lot of rudeness. I’m sure the folks who live here could tell me stories. But, for the most part, everyone says “Aloha” to each other and smiles. It seems as genuine as a casual encounter can be.

Amid that placidity is what’s around us – a turbulent ocean. The waves make a lot of noise. They spray and splash and crash and thunder on the lava rocks and the sandy beaches. It’s choppy and looks especially daunting to those of us who live near more tranquil waters.

It’s a lot like the world we live in.

There’s a lot of churn out there. There’s a lot that can get in the way of our happiness. Rogue waves after a tsunami. The flooding you can expect from 24 inches of rain in three days. A brutal sun that burns skin a little faster than in northern climates.

And yet, working together, we solve it.

We get on surfboards (actually, they get on surfboards, I’m not going near one). Then we ride the waves, crash out eventually, and go back out and do it again and again.

The magnificent music created by the slack key guitar and ukelele ease the mind and reach deep into the soul. You could float a tanker with all the sunscreen for sale.

People wear loud shirts and dresses, forget what socks are, read and walk and dream. 

Hawaii is what America should be. It’s impressive that it actually is part of America, because except for the flags and the occasional post office, it often seems like another world.

That’s not to everyone’s liking. There are bumper stickers and graffiti saying “Hawaii is not America.” And the Americanization that has taken place is scary enough to some people that a song on Bad Bunny’s Grammy-winning album warns Puerto Ricans against suffering the same fate.

So let’s work it out. Let’s find a way to make sure Hawaiians and every other American can be their true self and enjoy the pursuit of happiness promised in the Declaration of Independence nearly 250 years ago.

Let’s welcome those who aspire to be us, who want to contribute to a great national effort toward the more perfect union sought by the Constitution. No one – no one! – is “an illegal.”

Let’s solve our real problems amid the stormy seas around us – climate change, equality, economic justice. Let’s explore and question and tolerate and enjoy.

That’s what I see on the beach here on Kauai. I know when you read this I’ll be back among the maelstrom we’ve been experiencing all year – hell, ever since Trump went down the escalator.

But, for now, I’m going to enjoy it – and wish fervently that you and your loved ones get to enjoy it again as well.

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HOLIDAY SONG COUNTDOWN – DEC. 16

“MELE KALIKIMAKA” – 9 DAYS TO CHRISTMAS

It was my pleasure to spend the much of the past week in Maui. Where, believe it or not, it is also Christmas time.

The reason you might not believe it is that it’s nothing near cold there. We were walking by the beach in T-shirts, shorts and flip-flops while it was 19 degrees at home.

But there are decorations – below is a picture of the Christmas tree just after sunset outside the restaurant where we had dinner. 

And there is music. It should not surprise anyone that the one song we heard play most in the seven December days we were there was “Mele Kalikimaka.” It was written by R. Alex Anderson, who was born in Hawaii. Bing Crosby popularized it in 1950.

Because it’s in English – other than the words “Mele Kalikimaka,” which mean Merry Christmas – it’s not considered traditional Hawaiian music. But it’s fun to hear Hawaiian musicians play it in Hawaii.

Unfortunately, there are few versions online, but this video by Josh Tatofi is most reminiscent of what I heard during a glorious week in paradise.

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